New York Fashion Week SS13: Minimalist Modernism

I've not had a lot of time this weekend to poperly submerge myself in New York Fashion Week coverage, however, from what I have seen, there is a distinctly modernist aesthetic running through a lot of the collections. 

Alexander Wang

Prabal Gurung

Alexander Wang, New York's cool-kid and king of sports-luxe, went down the metallic and monochrome route with bold cut-out panelling and simple, clean cut lines whilst Prabal Gurung used light silk-chiffon and silk-satins to create deconstructed biker jackets and sports-inspired shorts. Both collections, though extremely different, are tied together by a sense of elegant feminine modernity.

Derek Lam

Honor

Helmut Lang

Derek Lam's collection championed the one of the fashion packs outfit staples: a simple (and occasionally baggy) jumper paired with a knee-length pencil skirt of heavy embellishment/detail. Honor, much like Wang and Gurung, used a lot of white in the collection though instead teamed it with candy-coloured tulip skirts and sheer chiffon tops; the monochrome palette really cleverly emphasised the neat silhouettes without looking dull. 

Victoria Beckham

Victoria Beckham was probably the bravest of the minimalist New York pack in terms of colour - though it was still fairly conservative in comparison to the sorbet-shades that dominated many of the SS12 catwalks. Chic tailoring and sharp design defined Beckhams SS13 collection, the black cut-out jacket (seen above, middle) is particularly beautiful.

New York Fashion Week never really appealed to me as a whole but some of my favourite shows in recent years have been New York based; Karen Walker, The Row, Marc Jacobs and Proenza Schouler - to name a few. What do you think of the collections so far and who are you most looking forward to showing this season?

photos from style.com

New York Fashion Week: Helmut Lang AW12

Some of you may (or may not) know that last September I moved to New York for 3 months. Everyone kept telling me it was like London, only bigger; however, geographical differences aside, it's nothing like London. I could write a list as long as my arm citing the disparities: fashion, lifestyle, night-life - where do you start? During my first week there, I was lucky enough to attend a show during New York Fashion Week and it was there that I noticed a massive contrast in clothing and personal style. See, New Yorker's are very chic and more often that not, live in a uniform of black whilst rarely venturing into the world of colour. I, for one, can appreciate this apprehension of wearing colour because it scares me; what if it clashes with my hair? Do I have to co-ordinate it with my nail-varnish? The potential colour predicaments are endless.

Anyway, what does any of this have to do with Helmut Lang? Technically, New York Fashion Week and I should be the best of friends but to be entirely truthful, I usually find it excruciatingly boring. There's rarely any 'oomph' (for want of a better word) and I'm usually disappointed, even more so after having fallen in love with the city. So far this season it's been true to form and the only people I'm vaguely excited about are yet to show. With its monochrome palette, structured tailoring, luxury fabrics and clever styling Helmut Lang has thus far been my favourite show.

I'll be the first to admit that there's nothing new here: over the knee boots, cobwebby knits, funnel-neck leather jackets and leather trousers are all far from cutting edge. What I do love though is the simplicity and wearability of the collection - it is neither generic nor high-fashion and therefore suits me just fine. In my opinion, this is the best collection out of a bad bunch which is such a shame as New York has so much to offer. I know it isn't notorious for avant-garde and unwearable fashions but it would be nice to see something unique and original come out of NYFW this season, let's hope the best is still to come!